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What
pushed you to travel as a freelance journalist?
I have been living in Egypt with my family for a year back
in 1979/80, so traveling was a part of my life from very early
on. I was involved with some type of journalism ever since
I was 12.
After doing my A-levels, I was offered a job at a regional
radio station here in Switzerland. There, I also took care
of the weekly travel show; so I also developped a professional
interest for travels and destinations.
In between jobs and before starting to study international
relations here at the Graduate
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Institute of International Studies in Geneva (Institut
de Hautes Etudes Internationales), I decided to set off for
longer periods of time, usually three month in one place or
region.
Initially, I didn't have the idea to actually combine travelling
and journalism. Then I inquired with some newspapers and
magazines, and since I was already involved in journalism,
they liked the idea to publish something about areas where
they are never invited to. So gradually the idea became reality:
Traveling to less-known regions with few travelers and travel
journalists around, and actually paying for the trip afterwards
with hopefully lively reports and (also hopefully) good pictures.
So that's how I started to go to places like Bosnia and Herzegovina,
Cambodia, and Zambia. But I have to emphasize that the
main thing is not the report, but the trip. Even if I
couldn't publish anything, I would still travel. For me
traveling to less developed or otherwise special places is
a part of life that I would never give away. The fact
that I can share it with others makes it even more worthwhile. |
You seem particularly
appealed by African, Asian and East European countries.
Why those countries? Was it a personal choice or a
random one?
Part of both. When I choose a destination, there
are of course reasons of money and practicability
that I have to take into account. But the main thing
is that I would like to discover places less spoiled
by tar roads and TV than others. My experience
is that the worse the access, the more fresh and natural
people (and nature) are.
To sit on a bamboo toilet in the tropical forest of
Laos where the pigs are waiting to recycle your biological
waste; to meet the Lozi people who clap their hands
to great each other in Western Zambia; to talk to
a fighter pilot of the former South Vietnamese Army;
to be in a Buddhist monestary in Cambodia; or to sleep
in a tent out in the wilderness of Botswana where
you hear the Lions roaming at night...
Those are all wonderful, unique, undescribable experiences
that are very different to have in places where Visa
cards and air condition busses are already common.
So part of it is certainly a choice, a choice also,
unfortunately, to go to these places before they are
permanently destroyed by the arrival of the US $,
the Euro, and the Yen. |
Another part of it was "coincidence", as
they call it. I was never interested in the Mekong
region (the former French Indochina) before my father
started to work for the Swiss government as director
of a develoipment program in Ho Chi Minh City. I quickly
became fond of this fast-changing region, and I will
always return to it to follow developments.
That may be another constant throughout the very
different places I've been to: they are all changing.
I went through all of Eastern Europe just after it
decided to use its new freedom to go for a market
economy and a representative government. There was
still enthousiasm in the air.
One year after the first democratic elections in South
Africa, Sandra and me set foot on that wonderful country.
Then, there was a lot of talk of the "New South
Africa", something we rarely heard two years
later.. |
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In Asia, Vietnam is on its way to become another Asian
tiger with its 80 million inhabitants, Laos was almost
completely closed to the outside world until 1989,
and Cambodia went through a lot of troubles during
my two visits there (1997, 1998) and is more stable
now than at any time since 1970.
The people of Bosnia and Herzegovina have seen war
and destruction in Europe, and now find it harder
to reconciliate than most.
To see these changes at close hand, to talk directly
to the people, is a memorable experience. At the
same time it makes me sad to see how materialism is
reaching the last ends of this world. |
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After
such outstanding travelling experiences, what do you
think you've learned?
The most important things are those that I
have learned about myself.
If you talk to a crying elderly man who has lost everything
except his life in the war in Bosnia, if you are in
an empty pharmacy in Zambia, or in a poor village
in Mozambique, you put your own little problems in
perspective.
I have learned how I react under extreme circumstances
such as gunfire, disease, and being confronted to
poverty. I also learned to enjoy moments.
And this may sound strange to some readers,but I have
also become much more spiritual. |
"God created a wonderful paradise right here
on Earth", I wrote in my diary when I sat alone
at a huge waterfall in Bou Sra, Cambodia, in the middle
of the jungle.
The second thing that I've learned is about others.
The two most important lessons are probably: We
are all different; and we are all the same.
While singing Karaoke with a generator-powered juke
box, a Cambodian boy showed me that he was much happier
than me despite his 30$/month salary and his much
increased likelyhood to die of malaria.
In Africa, there is never need for a special occasion
(or one is invented fast) to sing and to dance, and
even in poverty-striven Mozambique, people can give
you a more natural smile than they do in France and
Switzerland.
Other than the many discussions I have had with locals,
I also enjoyed meeting other (strange/interesting)
travelers at the (strange/interesting) places I went
to.
The third thing that I have learned are just the "facts",
the "sightseeings" - which are nice, but
become ever less important for me. Where there
is nothing to see and nothing to do, that's where
I have seen and experienced most. |
Which one of the countries
you have visited it's been the most significant
for you and why?
That's the most frequent question I have
to answer and also the most difficult. People
normally push me for an answer, and the names
of the countries vary according to my mood and
what comes to my mind. Right now, I probably
have to answer: Cambodia.
When I first went there in 1997, it was still
very dangerous to travel outside Phnom Penh,
Siem Reap/Angkor, and Kompong Som/Sihanoukville.
I witnessed the first pre-coup fighting before
the coup in 1997 and felt that I had to
return the year after. Then, I had the chance
to work as an international election observer,
which made my three-month stay (just in Cambodia)
even more interesting.
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After the elections, I traveled to a lot of
provinces where guide books were only in the
making. Imagine taking an airplane to a place
called Mondulkiri somewhere in the forest where
not even the provincial capital has electricity
and you just don't know what to expect.
You step out of the plane onto the dirt road
and wonder if there is a place to stay. You
don't order a specific type of food, you just
order "food" there, because all depends
what's in the market today. You hire an
elephant and treck through the forest. After
the elephant has walked through two or three
rivers, the guide asks you to give a sacrifice
for the spirits of the jungle. Of course you
also get this in Thailand, but here it's real.
The special thing about my "90 Days in
Cambodia" was probably that I went to many
places which have only become accessible a very
short time before I went there. That even includes
the Khmer Rouge semi-autonomous province of
Pailin, where you can play roulette with former
Communist guerillas who have AK 47s on their
backs.
Today, everything is already written down and
more travelers are streaming into Cambodia.
But for me, it had a bit of an exploration
- both outside and inside me.
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©Photos
Marcel Stoessel - All rights reserved -
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